The north east of Turkey was once part of the Georgian Kingdom of Iberia and there are still some interesting Georgian churches to be found in the area.
In the 9th and 10th centuries the Çoruh river valley was part of the Tao-Klarjeti region ruled by the Bagrationi dynasty – the founder of which had been Ashot I (ruled 813 – 826). The churches to be found there mainly date from the 9th and 10th centuries and were once part of larger monastery complexes. Several of them have plaques attesting to their use as mosques from the 16th century onwards, though it is likely that during the Russian occupation of the early twentieth century, their use reverted to churches.
The following is not an exhaustive list, but they are the ones I visited over a couple of days in summer 2023.
As a result of the hydroelectric works in the area, there have been extensive changes to the road system in this area in recent years and finding some of the churches is very difficult and takes time, patience and determination. Even though I had visited all of them several years ago, I still found myself relying on a mixture of a paper maps, Google maps and an innate sense of direction. And I still I had to ask the way many times.
If you are short of time, the easiest two to visit are Öşvank and Haho. The embedded map below gives their exact locations.
Barhal church
(Also known as Parkhali)
One of the most impressive of all the churches: it is in excellent condition (it is being used as a mosque) and you are able to go inside.
Difficult and time-consuming to reach. To get there take the Sarıgöl road from Yusufeli and keep going for approx 28 km. After Taşkıran it is a very narrow, twisty single-track road.
Dörtkilise
(Also known as Otkhta and sometimes referred to as Tekkale)
Difficult to reach but in an impressive location. To get there, take the signs to Tekkale and emerging from the tunnel into the village, turn right and keep heading uphill for 5km. As the metalled road runs out and turns to track, you have already gone 200m too far. If you turn round, you will see the church behind you.
Haho monastery (Khakhuli)
Easy to reach and well signed off the Artvin-Erzerum road.
It is being used as a mosque, and when I visited it was only possible to go inside during prayer times.
Öşvank monastery
(Also known as Oshki).
One of the most impressive of all the churches even though it is not possible to go inside. It is easy to reach off the Artvin-Erzerum road. Follow the signs to Çamlıyamaç.
İşhan church
Signed off the Yusufeli-Olur road (in the direction of Olur). Recently restored, İşhan is an impressive church. Not difficult to reach but up a very steep single track road.
When I visited, it was not possible to go inside.
Dolishane kilise
Situated in Hamamlı village.
Signed off the Artvin-Şavşat road. Not difficult to find but up a very steep and narrow track.
Tbeti Monastery
Situated in Cevizli village – travelling from Artvin to Şavşat, take the turn off on the left for Veliköy. Just before the road turns right, take the left turn signed for Ilıca(?). In a beautiful location, but the church is in a very ruined state and there is not much more to see than in the photograph.
Below is a Google map showing the locations of the churches mentioned above.
